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How to Build a Rabbit Cage

I make all my own cages and have always done so. I've made hundreds over the last 40 years, and now they're second nature to me. I use all wire cages because they are self-cleaning and odor-free. Making a cage is very simple. Aside from a table or workbench to work on, you need:

  • 1" x 1" 14-gauge woven wire for most of the cage
  • 1" x 1/2" 14-gauge or 16-gauge woven wire for the cage floor
  • wire cutters (I use small bolt cutters)
  • hog rings (3/8")
  • a pair of hog ring pliers
  • measuring tape or ruler

If you prefer, you can use j-clips instead of hog rings. I like the hog rings best because they're easier to remove if you make a mistake (and I make plenty)--you just cut the rings with your cutters. Hog rings also have many other uses, such as repairing hockey shin pads.

My cages are all 30" deep, 36" long, and 18" high. But they can be any size you want. For example, a dwarf rabbit has plenty of room in a 24" x 24" cage. The bottom wire for the floor should be 1" x 1/2" mesh (to prevent tiny feet from getting caught and broken), while the sides, front, and back can be 1" x 1" mesh. The top can be 1" x 1" or 1" x 2".

Below are directions for making a 30" x 36" cage.

  • Cut a 30" x 36" piece of 1" x 1/2" woven wire (floor)
  • Cut a 30" x 36" piece of 1" x 1" woven wire or 1" x 2" (top)
  • Cut a 18" x 132" piece of 1" x 1" (front, back, and sides)

You need to fold (bend at a right angle) the 18" x 132" piece of woven wire in three places. To fold the wire, I lay the wire on a table (or bench) and bend the wire down along the edge of the table or workbench. Fairly easy to do. For the first fold, measure 36" across the piece of woven wire and fold. From that first fold, measure another 30" across and fold again. From the second fold, measure 36" and fold the third time. The remaining "side" of the piece of woven wire should now be 30". You've made the sides of the cage. Making a cage that is essentially one piece saves time and hog rings.

Next, attach a hog ring to the edge of the 30" side and connect the ring to the edge of the 36" side. Continue attaching hog rings at 4 - 5" intervals, connecting the edges together. Attach the floor with hog rings place at 4" intervals and do the same for the top. Voila ! Your cage is put together.

Now comes the door. Cut the opening for the door 2" from either side of the 36" length of your cage (depending on whether you want your door opening to the left or right). The opening should be about 13" wide, 2" from the bottom, and 2"from the top. Now you need a door. Cut a piece of wire 1" bigger all around than your door opening. Connect it to the cage with hog rings.

I make my own door latches (bunny-proof, too) from heavy galvanized fence wire. They are difficult to make because they have to be bent for an exact fit and the wire is very stiff. I recommend buying ready-made door latches. They are very cheap, and they can be purchased from any place you can get rabbitry supplies.

You cut the feeder opening the same way as the door opening, just be sure it is 2" above the bottom of the cage. I think all feeders are about the same size, so the opening should be 2" x 8".

And that is a basic rabbit hutch!

My favorite supplier of rabbit feeders, bottles, door latches, etc. is

Morton Jones
(925 Third Street)
P.O.Box 123. Ramona, CA 92065
800-443-5769 (order line)

The prices are reasonable and the service is fast and efficient. I use the all metal feeders and the LIXIT large rabbit bottle from Morton Jones.

 

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This book has more plans for making nestboxes and cages. Buy it at

Buy wire for your cages at Bass Equipment.

Get tools for assembling your hutch at Bass Equipment.

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Building Rabbit Housing shows how to build cages and hutches. Buy it at B&N.
 
 
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